Monday, 4 October 2010

Paris Fashion Week: Shows & Parties

Victor & Rolf, RTW S/S 2011
Viktor & Rolf, RTW Spring 2011

Paris Fashion Show is in full-swing, thrilling fashion-lovers and editors internationally with its signature catwalk shows (to end all catwalk shows), alongside spectacularly stylish collections, audiences and parties. If you haven't already, you can view all Ready-to-wear Spring 2011 collections here (my favourites include: Celine, Lanvin, Haider Ackermann & Zac Posen). However, while clothes remain central (of course) I'd like to pay tribute to PFW's famously stylised shows and parties, which receive just as much hype, if not more. Here are my highlights:

Catwalk Shows
I was particularly sad not to see Karl Lagerfeld present his own collection this time around; he cancelled his show (previously scheduled for October 3rd), but his latest Chanel collection will be unveiled tomorrow, October 5th. The man of many talents has also found himself behind the camera again, for his collaboration with Hogan - you can watch his short film, hereAnd, to console you for the lack of Lagerfeld's eponymous label in PFW, you'll be pleased to know that the beloved designer is creating a ready-to-wear collection, ready for Autumn/Winter 2011. Named Masstige, the collection is based upon the idea of "prestige for the masses", thus aiming to be more commercial. Exciting... but will we be able to afford it? Watch this space!

Meanwhile, John Galliano gave his fans an awe-inspiring theatrical performance with his RTW Spring 2011 collection. Providing red velvet chairs for his audience and a gold mirrored catwalk for his models, this was one not-to-be-missed show. All attention was truly deserved. According to collection notes, the idea was based upon 1920's con artist Maria Lani, who convinced leading painters such as Matisse and Chagall to paint her portrait, before fleeing Europe with the paintings. Each model was styled differently, in reference to the ever-changing appearance of Lani herself. And despite the magical world Galliano created, his garments were as beautifully crafted as ever, displaying an impressive range of fabrics, shapes and references. If you're reading this on my blog, here's the video:

Another particularly note-worthy show, was Jean-Paul Gaultier, who seemed to be channelling David Bowie, Joan Jett and 1980's London, with a feminine if-you-look-close-enough twist. A dazzlingly diverse collection which I suspect will elicit 'love or hate' reactions, the performative aspect of the show was again, just as important. Viewers were given 3-D glasses and Beth Ditto opened and provided the finale, singing or drinking champagne. Gaultier's a champion for plus-size models and at a time when others are starting to follow (albeit gradually), he's making his point loud and clear. 

Beth Ditto for Jean-Paul Gaultier, RTW Spring 2011
Beth Ditto for Gaultier,  RTW Spring 2011
Other exciting shows have included Christian Dior (South pacific/naval theme) and the bizarre, but brilliantly inventive Viktor & Rolf (top picture).

Christian Dior RTW, Spring 2011
Christian Dior RTW Spring 2011

The Parties
Two of PFW's most star-studded parties were Roberto Cavalli's 40th anniversary celebrations (which began in Milan and ended in Paris) and Carine Roitfeld's masquerade ball to celebrate the 90th anniversary issue of French Vogue! In the theme of Kubrick's Eyes Wide Shut, this has arguably become the most talked-about event à Paris. Here are some pics:
Jean Paul Gaultier and Carine Roitfeld, French Vogue's 90th anniversary party
Carine Roitfeld & Jean Paul Gaultier

Gisele Bundchen, French Vogue's 90th anniversary party
Gisele Bundchen

Lily Donaldson, French Vogue's 90th anniversary party
Lily Donaldson

Images: 1) Daily Mail, 2) New York Magazine, 3) - 5)


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